TOQLLARAJU & CHOPICALQUI EXPEDITION 19,790 & 20,968 FT.
Prerequisites: Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition and be comfortable following ice up to WI 3. Previous high altitude experience recommended.
With a diverse culture and 25 peaks over 6,000 meters, its no wonder the Cordillera Blanca of Peru is a world-renowned destination. From scenic glacier walks to wildly corniced ridges and steep fluted faces, all can be found here. Many of these spectacular climbs are just next door to each other!
The Cordillera Blanca's are a great place for the intermediate climber to gain more altitude and technical climbing experience, especially if you have aspirations of harder alpine climbs like those found here or in the Himalayas.
THE HIMALAYAS OF THE AMERICA'S!
Our trip starts in Lima where we shuttle North to Huaraz. From here we will begin our acclimatization. After spending a day resting and doing a short acclimatization hike to Laguna Churup (14,500), we will return to town for a good nights sleep. Early the next morning, we will drive to the trailhead where we will load our equipment onto burros and begin the scenic hike to base camp. This beautiful hike, which meanders thru dense Quenual trees, ends in the upper Ishinca Valley where we will establish base camp. Situated at 14,000 ft., this is a very comfortable camp in which we will stay for several days. We will have several options for an acclimatization peak. These include Ishinca (18,140) and/or Urus Este at 17,780 ft. Both of these peaks are relatively straightforward and serve as great warm-ups for our main objective, Tocllaraju (19,790). From a newly placed high camp, we will negotiate major crevasses over gradually steepening terrain followed by several belayed pitches before reaching this stellar summit. The next day we depart from camp and head back down valley towards Huaraz. This is a relaxing hike out in which we can be proud of our accomplishments while looking forward to a hot shower and a cold beverage in town.
Llaganuco Valley
After a much needed rest day in Huaraz, we will drive to the Llanganuco Valley, where we will attempt our final peak, Chopicalqui ( 20,968). From the Moraine camp near 16,100 ft. we will move once more to our high camp in between Chopicalqui and Huascaran. From this high camp at 18,370, we will make our summit attempt on the classic Southwest Ridge. This day is always exciting, with steep belayed climbing and good exposure all the way to the summit. From the summit we will have spectacular views of the Cordillera Blanca including Alpamayo and Taulliraju. Not to be missed!