ILLINIZA AND ANTISANA EXPEDITIONS 17,268 ft. and 18,715 ft.

 

Prerequisites: Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition and be comfortable following ice up to WI 3. Previous high altitude experience recommended.

These two mountains offer a more technical objective with fewer crowds than the standard Volcano circuit and serve as great training grounds for larger alpine routes. This expedition is an excellent choice for intermediate climbers who wish to apply their skills on higher and more moderately challenging peaks.

The Ecuadorian Andes offers an incredible mix between a colorful culture and world class climbing.

Our trip into the Andes begins in Quito at 9,400 ft (South America's second highest capitol). This is a very high altitude to arrive at and proper acclimatization is very important. We will spend the next two days exploring the local markets such as the Quechua Indian market of Otavalo (9,800) and doing scenic acclimatization hikes in and around Quito.

On day four, we leave the cities behind and travel to Illiniza where we will establish our camp in between Illiniza Sur and Illiniza Norte. Here we will prepare for our summit climb by enjoying the majestic views and reviewing the skills necessary for our upcoming climb. The N. Face of Illiniza Sur consists of moderately steep snow and ice (sections up to 70 degree's), which leads to a beautiful ridgeline. Once we reach the airy summit we will enjoy the views and refocus our attention for the descent, which weaves it's way through sometimes steep and broken crevasses. From beginning to end, this is a challenging but rewarding climb.

From our base camp we will descend in order to rest and relax before moving on to our next objective, Antisana. We will then drive to the base of our route and establish a camp in the unique grassy terrain of the Andean foothills. This is a very remote place with the glaciers and climbing routes in a constant state of change. We will rely upon our knowledge and skill to navigate this complex terrain. Once we are established on the route, we will continue up 45-degree snow, including numerous short, steep steps up to 75 degree's. After our successful summit and descent, we will return to Quito.

This is an excellent trip for those who wish to experience fantastic climbing and cultural exploration without the obligation of some of our longer trips.