ANCOHUMA (21,095 ft) AND ILLAMPU (20,873 ft)
Length: 18 Days
Dates: 6/30/06
Cost:
$ 6200 private - single climber
$ 3600 per climber - maximum of two climbers per guide
Prerequisites: Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition and be comfortable following ice up to WI 3. Previous high altitude experience recommended.
The Cordillera Real is Bolivia’s foremost climbing region with numerous peaks rising above 6,000 meters, all of which offer a wide variety of alpine climbing. Ancohuma at 21,095 ft. and Illampu at 20,873 ft. are the highest peaks in the Northern extremity of the Cordillera’s and offer some of the most challenging and rewarding climbing in Bolivia. Both peaks offer extreme vertical relief with steep fluted snow and ice faces along with some of the Bolivia’s most stunning panoramic views.
The first days of the expedition are spent in and around La Paz, the world’s highest capitol, acclimatizing and exploring the ancient cultures that are still a part of this fascinating country. While acclimating, we will visit the pre-Incan ruins of Tiahuanacu. This city, which was once the center of Bolivia’s most important pre-Columbian civilization, lies near the southern shores of Lake Titicaca. Here, we will enjoy the beautiful culture while we explore the highly decorated ruins, renowned for their artistry and construction.
EXPERIENCE SUPERB CLIMBING WITHOUT THE CROWDS
On our third day we will drive North from La Paz across the Altiplano to the small city of Sorata situated at the Northern end of the Cordillera Real. From here we begin our two-day trek to the Ancohuma base camp, which is situated by a large alpine lake. Leaving our comfy base camp, we will establish two more camps higher onto the glacier. On summit day we will leave high camp (18,600 ft) and climb several pitches of 50-degree snow and ice bringing us to the knife-edged North ridge. We will follow this airy ridge, with steep drop-offs on both sides, to Ancohuma’s spectacular summit. After our descent and some rest, we will turn our attention to our next objective, Illampu.
With our first summit behind us, we will continue on our trek, establishing several camps including a high camp located at 17,000 ft at the base of the Northwest Face. This camp puts us in an ideal position to tackle the complex and broken glacier that offers access to the steep snow and ice of the Northwest face. After a 1,000 ft of climbing on 50-degree ice, we will arrive at an exposed ridge. This ridge is narrow and often corniced providing much excitement and pucker factor! This airy ridge continues on for another 1,000 ft to the summit of Illampu, all the while offering some of the most impressive views of the Cordillera Real!